It seems impossible that it is time to ring in yet another year. The older I get the faster the time passes. Cuyutlán is enjoying beautiful weather, big, high seas, and lots of visitors, mostly day-trippers. Bug busses come rolling in early in the morning carrying families with lots of kids. They drag their beach chairs, coolers, umbrellas, and Grandma down to the sand where they set up housekeeping for the day. This is not a particularly good beach for swimming; there is a very strong rip tide and a very shallow drop off. But the kids play in the shallow surf, the adults eat and drink, and everyone has a fine time. Then about 5:30, everyone packs up, trudges back to the bus, and heads for home. This routine has been going on during this week between Christmas and New Year's Day. Tomorrow will be the end of it. Next big influx, Easter. But that isn't until April 16th so we have our town back to ourselves for awhile.
There will be several parties in town tonight. Usually what happens is that you pay to reserve a table at one of the hotels and pay for a bottle of some kind of liquor, and the mixes are provided. There is usually live music and dancing, and it goes on until 2- or 3 o'clock. Again this year we probably won't make it! Instead we will mosey up to the center of town for dinner, stroll the malecon, and call it a night.
Report from the ICU is that things continue to improve. Good news.
Last night I cooked Pescado Veracruzano. Here's how you make it. First, take a whole fish . . . .
Happy New Year to all.
Saturday, December 31, 2005
Thursday, December 29, 2005
Las Ballenas
The whales were passing by this evening, spouting and breeching right off the beach in front of the house. There were three or four of them, having a high time on their way South, big, black beauties glistening in the setting sun. Beautiful.
My sister is still in the ICU but getting better, according to my niece. I am about to call and check. Yes, she is indeed improving. My daughter Alex is there; she will see to it that things are done properly!
My sister is still in the ICU but getting better, according to my niece. I am about to call and check. Yes, she is indeed improving. My daughter Alex is there; she will see to it that things are done properly!
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
El Electricista
When Roy built this house he had it wired in an almost impenetrable pattern. There must be, beneath the cement, a web of wires crossing and re-crossing, up and down three flights. Every now and then it all goes ker-flooy and we are left trying to decipher which circuit breaker pertains to which set of lights or electrical outlets. Well, it has happened again. One of the lights on the first floorterrazo has gone out. Those lights are on breaker #5, according to Roy's list. After several attempts by both Jim and Fernando to locate the problem, including Fernando blowing a circuit, it was decided that an electrisista must be called. Because it appears that the downstairs switch is wired into both circuit #5 and #1. We are now awaiting the arrival of the gentleman who, almost a year ago, had to come in and do a great deal of rewiring. This was done so that when Fernando was painting the wall around the house he didn't get a shock, or when Jim turned on the hose bib in the back of the house he didn't get zapped. As I said, the wiring is a maze of some madman's design.
My sister Vicky is in the hospital in San Diego. She has paid her annual visit to the emergency room and is spending her usual 10 days or so there. She was on the mend, I thought, but the latest news is not good. She is now in ICU. I will report as I get more information.
My sister Vicky is in the hospital in San Diego. She has paid her annual visit to the emergency room and is spending her usual 10 days or so there. She was on the mend, I thought, but the latest news is not good. She is now in ICU. I will report as I get more information.
Monday, December 26, 2005
Monday at the Tianges
When I approached my favorite vegetable stall this morning, I spotted a big box of beautiful, firm rodondo zucchini squash. I smiled and raised my eyes. The stall owner was looking at me with a big smile on his face.
"Todo son para ti," he said. "All for you!"
So I bought about a kilo and am looking forward to eating them.
Other goodies in today's market included beautiful cauloflower, shiny juice oranges, large and fragrant pineapples, and big Haas avocados. No strawberries today. The jicama is coming in and is sweet and tender, with pale beige skins, not the woody brown ones that indicate toughness. The garlic lady had the big purple heads of garlic, what I think we call "Elephant Garlic." No plants today.
But a good market, all in all.
"Todo son para ti," he said. "All for you!"
So I bought about a kilo and am looking forward to eating them.
Other goodies in today's market included beautiful cauloflower, shiny juice oranges, large and fragrant pineapples, and big Haas avocados. No strawberries today. The jicama is coming in and is sweet and tender, with pale beige skins, not the woody brown ones that indicate toughness. The garlic lady had the big purple heads of garlic, what I think we call "Elephant Garlic." No plants today.
But a good market, all in all.
Feliz Navidad
On this beautiful Christmas Day we started with a delicious brunch on the terrazo: papaya grown in Chuy and Fernando's garden, chiliquillas, and the first beer of the day. A wonderful way to celebrate. This was followed by a day spent mostly reading. At 5 o'clock, friend dropped over for a Christmas Day supper provided by the two Canadian women who lived in our house last year. They are both wonderful cooks and this time whipped up a fabulous Asian meal. We sat around on the third floor watching the sunset (not much; too much fog), drinking wine and eating goodies.
One year ago we were in Barcelona, Spain. It was very cold, but sunny and clear. The bells of the cathedral, about 20 yards from our apartment, rang early in the morning and then several times during the day. There were crowds of people wandering through Cathedral Square. I remember that we went out for a walk in the afternoon, down Las Rambles to see the decorations. And here we are this year in the warm, balmy Mexican winter, in a tiny little village that has few people and fewer decorations. What a difference a year makes.
Our revels now are ended. It was a lovely Christmas Day spent with friends in a glorious tropical setting, with phone calls from family. What more could one ask for?
One year ago we were in Barcelona, Spain. It was very cold, but sunny and clear. The bells of the cathedral, about 20 yards from our apartment, rang early in the morning and then several times during the day. There were crowds of people wandering through Cathedral Square. I remember that we went out for a walk in the afternoon, down Las Rambles to see the decorations. And here we are this year in the warm, balmy Mexican winter, in a tiny little village that has few people and fewer decorations. What a difference a year makes.
Our revels now are ended. It was a lovely Christmas Day spent with friends in a glorious tropical setting, with phone calls from family. What more could one ask for?
Saturday, December 24, 2005
"The Shepherd"
Our contact with the First World is mainly via short wave radio at the VOA, sometimes the BBC, and every night on the CBC. Week nights at six o'clock the news (the Canadian version) comes on. Then at 6:30 we hear a wonderful program called "As It Happens". This program has been on for more than thirty years. The original hosts were Alan Maitland and Elizabeth Gray. Then the duties fell to Mary Lou Finley and Barbara Budd. Mary Lou recently retired so the probram is now hosted by Budd and a rotating guest host; permanent replacement yet to be found. Every year on Christmas Eve they broadcast Frederick Forsyth's short story "The Shepherd", "acted" by the late Alan Maitland. I say "acted" because he does much more than simply read this beautiful story. It is one of the most magical, mysterious Christmas stories ever, ranking right along with O'Henry's "The Gift of the Magi". If you have never read it or heard ut read, I encourage you.
In the meantime, it is Christmas Eve, the surf is pounding, the sky is clear, the bugs have all gone somewhere else, and it is a calm and peaceful night. Happy Christmas to all, and to all a Goodnight.
In the meantime, it is Christmas Eve, the surf is pounding, the sky is clear, the bugs have all gone somewhere else, and it is a calm and peaceful night. Happy Christmas to all, and to all a Goodnight.
Friday, December 23, 2005
El Chivo
The big excitement this afternoon was the goat that got loose and was tearing around town, most probably trying to escape its inevitable fate of becoming birria, a delicious goat stew. This beautiful animal jumped out of a truck and took off headed for the beach. He was being hotly pursued by his owner and possibly by the chef. He then circled around, came back up the street, cut across one lot and headed for our house. He was, however, corralled soon thereafter, returned to the truck, and driven away. Sic transit gloria.
Meanwhile, Christmas is fast approaching. The flower shop was out of almost everything by the time I got there this morning. I'll go back tomorrow, early, as instructed. There are many stalls out on the streets of Armeria, selling clothes, hand-painted dishes and cups, CDs and DVDs, all copies, plus the usual things we might think of as "stocking stuffers." The only thing missing is a Santa Claus!
Nothing to eat in the larder. I guess it's up to town for sopitas (miniature tostadas), 6 for 20 pesos ($1.90) and beer. Tomorrow night is a local couple's annual Christmas Eve party so let's go light on the carbs tonight and plan to feast tomorrow.
Meanwhile, Christmas is fast approaching. The flower shop was out of almost everything by the time I got there this morning. I'll go back tomorrow, early, as instructed. There are many stalls out on the streets of Armeria, selling clothes, hand-painted dishes and cups, CDs and DVDs, all copies, plus the usual things we might think of as "stocking stuffers." The only thing missing is a Santa Claus!
Nothing to eat in the larder. I guess it's up to town for sopitas (miniature tostadas), 6 for 20 pesos ($1.90) and beer. Tomorrow night is a local couple's annual Christmas Eve party so let's go light on the carbs tonight and plan to feast tomorrow.
Thursday, December 22, 2005
Noche Buenas Redux
My friend Carolyn told me that when she had been in Tecoman (next LARGE town) on Wednesday she had passed by a big vivero that had poinsettia's by the hundreds. So this morning we took off to seek such a Mother Lode. She was armed with a map and explicit directions. Alas, we could not find the one she had seen, but we found another with, indeed, hundreds of beautiful plants ready for the taking. We went up this one-way street, down that one-way street, and finally found the entrance. I bought a carload of these little red beauties. Our house is now filled with color. Christmas has arrived.
What else arrived today was the first taste of taleras, a soft, white-dough bread that is like an English Muffin, but not quite. The usual bread we get here is the bollio, also a white dough bread, shaped like a small French roll, but not sourdough. The talera is made from the same dough but is round and not crisp on the outside. They are rather hard to find and their quality varies widely. The best are from the big open market in Manzanillo. We can order them here from Baby (the proprietress of the best abarrotes in town but it's always chancy whether we will actually get them. Jack is going to Manzanillo tomorrow to conduct business and will stop at the market to get all that are available. We just might get enough to see us out.
What else arrived today was the first taste of taleras, a soft, white-dough bread that is like an English Muffin, but not quite. The usual bread we get here is the bollio, also a white dough bread, shaped like a small French roll, but not sourdough. The talera is made from the same dough but is round and not crisp on the outside. They are rather hard to find and their quality varies widely. The best are from the big open market in Manzanillo. We can order them here from Baby (the proprietress of the best abarrotes in town but it's always chancy whether we will actually get them. Jack is going to Manzanillo tomorrow to conduct business and will stop at the market to get all that are available. We just might get enough to see us out.
Wednesday, December 21, 2005
Noche Buenas
I went searching for these beautiful red plants today to decorate the house. Four viveros later, I gave up and came home dragging along about half a dozen of the most pathetic specimens imaginable. Two years ago they were in every market and garden spot around. Feast or famine.
Wednesday is Mexican Train Dominoes night. Great fun.
The pelicans and other shore birds have been very plentiful this year. We see flocks of brown pelicans skimming over the waves, then suddenly making a corkscrew turn and diving into the water. There are also white herons, lots of gulls, egrets, and other tiny, scurrying birds at the water's edge. The waters must be healthy and full of fish to support the birds. When not flying around they float on the waves like wooden decoys, bobbing up and down. Whales and porpoise have been sighted just off shore here. This coastline is right in their migration pattern but they usually are here earlier.
Wednesday is Mexican Train Dominoes night. Great fun.
The pelicans and other shore birds have been very plentiful this year. We see flocks of brown pelicans skimming over the waves, then suddenly making a corkscrew turn and diving into the water. There are also white herons, lots of gulls, egrets, and other tiny, scurrying birds at the water's edge. The waters must be healthy and full of fish to support the birds. When not flying around they float on the waves like wooden decoys, bobbing up and down. Whales and porpoise have been sighted just off shore here. This coastline is right in their migration pattern but they usually are here earlier.
Tuesday, December 20, 2005
Last Autumnal Sunset
The sunset tonight was as far south as it gets, right over the house on the malecon where the Nativity Scene is laid out on the front lawn. This set-up comes complete with a flashing shooting star, the Virgin of Guadalupe, wreathed in flashing red lights overseeing the whole thing, diminutive figurines of Mary, Joseph, the Magi, angels, camels, sheep, cows, and a life-sized Baby Jesus who arrives in the manger on Christmas Eve. Starting tomorrow night, the sun will gradually move north, and by the time we leave will be setting over the El Buc Hotel, at least as seen from our third floor terrace. Between now and then, much will transpire, I'm sure.
This afternoon we set up the (electric) luminarios that go up the stairs from the first to the third floors. They look so pretty at night. Tomorrow I will go to Tecoman to the vivero to buy the Noche Buenas (poinsettas) to fill the house and put up the stairways. The house always looks so festive at Christmas. We put the lights up around the palapa as soon as we got here. Place looks like a nightclub!
Today was also the last day of school for kids here. The candle-lit Posada processions through town begin tomorrow night and will continue through Saturday. The children sing the traditional Posada songs, come to your door, knock and ask if there is room for Mary and Joseph. My first impulse is to say, "Sure. Come on in!" But instead, you say no and give them coins or candy, and they move on. You can hear these sweet, high voices as they approach, then a lot of giggling and urging by the parents with them, the giving of the treats, and then their little voices as they call out their "Gracias" and move on and begin singing. I love this tradition, one I first learned about when at school. The Spanish Club put on the Posada every year and I remember how beautiful it was then and is now.
This afternoon we set up the (electric) luminarios that go up the stairs from the first to the third floors. They look so pretty at night. Tomorrow I will go to Tecoman to the vivero to buy the Noche Buenas (poinsettas) to fill the house and put up the stairways. The house always looks so festive at Christmas. We put the lights up around the palapa as soon as we got here. Place looks like a nightclub!
Today was also the last day of school for kids here. The candle-lit Posada processions through town begin tomorrow night and will continue through Saturday. The children sing the traditional Posada songs, come to your door, knock and ask if there is room for Mary and Joseph. My first impulse is to say, "Sure. Come on in!" But instead, you say no and give them coins or candy, and they move on. You can hear these sweet, high voices as they approach, then a lot of giggling and urging by the parents with them, the giving of the treats, and then their little voices as they call out their "Gracias" and move on and begin singing. I love this tradition, one I first learned about when at school. The Spanish Club put on the Posada every year and I remember how beautiful it was then and is now.
Monday, December 19, 2005
¡Buen Provecho!
Monday is market day in Armeria, the next little town. One of the main streets is closed and vendors set up their stalls, selling everything from toilet paper to large tools, food, clothes, plasticware of every description and for every use, shoes, underwear, artificial flowers, sewing and embroidery supplies, toys, watches, herbs, spices, beans, and of course, fruits and vegetables. There is also the chicken man, who sells ALL parts of the bird, and the shrimp lady who sits in the middle of the walkway with buckets of big, raw shrimp, fanning away the flies with a towel. Believe it or not, these are the best shrimp around: $10 pesos a kilo, or about $4.70 US a pound. There is also the plant man who sells beautiful flowers and other plants for the garden.
This morning's market had some gorgeous red strawberries, 50 cents a pound US; avocados, 5 for $1 (imagine!), and the banana man was back with his tables loaded with several different varieties including plantains, regular Chiquitas, and the tiny, intensely sweet kind that are sort of sticky and slimy (not my favorites). The tomatoes were not great, and there were no redondos, the little round zucchini that are so sweet. Juice oranges are just coming in and are still puckery and tart. Pineapples looked very good, but I already have one. No mangoes yet; too early. Ditto papayas that are fit to eat. The plant man had some beautiful bouganvillia in lovely colors; I bought one in salmon pink for $25 pesos ($2.25 US) to go in the back garden against the wall.
I decided to make Albóndigas for dinner since I already have some redondos from last week and some good fresh oregano from Jack's garden. I had to get onions, garlic, some tomatoes and some meat. I went to our local butcheress, Pina, to buy my ground beef and ground pork. I am glad to see she is still in business. She has the BEST pork tenderloin on earth. Really.
It's time to start cooking the local cuisine. This is basically meatballs, but not like your Mother used to make, unless she learned how in Mexico. Absolutely wonderful.
Albóndigas en Salsa de Jitomate y Chipotle
(Meatballs in Tomato and Chipotle Sauce)
3/4 lb. ground beef
3/4 lb. ground pork
2 small zucchini, chopped
2 eggs
1/4 t oregano (more if fresh, chopped)
8 peppercorns
3/4 t salt
1/4 t cumin
Small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 lbs. tomatoes
3 to 4 chiles chipotles en adobo sauce (canned)
3/4 cups chicken broth
Mix together meats and zucchini.
IN A BLENDER, blend eggs, oregano, peppercorns, salt, cumin, onion, garlic. Add to meat mixture, mix well. Set aside, covered, for several hours if you like.
SIMMER TOMATOES for about 5 minutes to loosen skin. Remove skin, chop coarsely.
IN A BLENDER, puree tomatoes and chipotle chiles. Set this sauce aside for several hours if you like.
TO COOK
Heat sauce in large flameproof dish on top of the stove. Bring to a boil and cook over high flame, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes to thicken. Reduce heat, add chicken broth and bring up to the simmer.
Form the meatballs, about 24 in number. When sauce is simmering, add meatballs. Cover and cook over low flame about 50 - 60 minutes until done. Zucchini will still be slightly firm.
Serve over rice or pasta. The sauce will be rich and spicy. Cold beer should temper the fire!
Chopin is on the CD, the rice is ready, the Albóndigas are done, the sunset is over, and it's time for dinner ¡Buen Provecho!
This morning's market had some gorgeous red strawberries, 50 cents a pound US; avocados, 5 for $1 (imagine!), and the banana man was back with his tables loaded with several different varieties including plantains, regular Chiquitas, and the tiny, intensely sweet kind that are sort of sticky and slimy (not my favorites). The tomatoes were not great, and there were no redondos, the little round zucchini that are so sweet. Juice oranges are just coming in and are still puckery and tart. Pineapples looked very good, but I already have one. No mangoes yet; too early. Ditto papayas that are fit to eat. The plant man had some beautiful bouganvillia in lovely colors; I bought one in salmon pink for $25 pesos ($2.25 US) to go in the back garden against the wall.
I decided to make Albóndigas for dinner since I already have some redondos from last week and some good fresh oregano from Jack's garden. I had to get onions, garlic, some tomatoes and some meat. I went to our local butcheress, Pina, to buy my ground beef and ground pork. I am glad to see she is still in business. She has the BEST pork tenderloin on earth. Really.
It's time to start cooking the local cuisine. This is basically meatballs, but not like your Mother used to make, unless she learned how in Mexico. Absolutely wonderful.
Albóndigas en Salsa de Jitomate y Chipotle
(Meatballs in Tomato and Chipotle Sauce)
3/4 lb. ground beef
3/4 lb. ground pork
2 small zucchini, chopped
2 eggs
1/4 t oregano (more if fresh, chopped)
8 peppercorns
3/4 t salt
1/4 t cumin
Small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 lbs. tomatoes
3 to 4 chiles chipotles en adobo sauce (canned)
3/4 cups chicken broth
Mix together meats and zucchini.
IN A BLENDER, blend eggs, oregano, peppercorns, salt, cumin, onion, garlic. Add to meat mixture, mix well. Set aside, covered, for several hours if you like.
SIMMER TOMATOES for about 5 minutes to loosen skin. Remove skin, chop coarsely.
IN A BLENDER, puree tomatoes and chipotle chiles. Set this sauce aside for several hours if you like.
TO COOK
Heat sauce in large flameproof dish on top of the stove. Bring to a boil and cook over high flame, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes to thicken. Reduce heat, add chicken broth and bring up to the simmer.
Form the meatballs, about 24 in number. When sauce is simmering, add meatballs. Cover and cook over low flame about 50 - 60 minutes until done. Zucchini will still be slightly firm.
Serve over rice or pasta. The sauce will be rich and spicy. Cold beer should temper the fire!
Chopin is on the CD, the rice is ready, the Albóndigas are done, the sunset is over, and it's time for dinner ¡Buen Provecho!
Sunday, December 18, 2005
One more spin
There was an article on the Web today (I admit, it was from that paragon of impartial reporting The Weekly Standard) about a threesome marriage in Holland. The gentleman married both ladies, the two ladies married eachother.
The garde has gotten alot more avant since I've been gone.
The garde has gotten alot more avant since I've been gone.
Friday, December 16, 2005
La Luna Llena
Wherever you are, whomever you're with, whatever you're doing, stop and look at the full moon. Everyone on earth, no matter where, is seeing the same glorious light.
As Dave Garroway used to say in his sign-off, "I bid you Peace."
As Dave Garroway used to say in his sign-off, "I bid you Peace."
We Have Liftoff
Four days, 185 miles, four phone calls, one FAX attempt, many emails, one sprained foot and $295 pesos later, the aforementioned document left Colima via DHL en route to the US and the Man at the Bank. Vaya con Dios.
To celebrate, I am having my first margarita of the season and listening to some funky ranchero music on an obscure AM station beaming out of Guadalajara, I would guess. Perhaps Colima. From 4 PM to 6 PM this station plays Mexican ballads, circa 1950-1960. From 6 PM to 8 PM its ranchero from several periods, some of it pretty old. Great music to drink by.
Its going to be a spectacular sunset tonight as we've had some clouds and overcast late in the day.
To celebrate, I am having my first margarita of the season and listening to some funky ranchero music on an obscure AM station beaming out of Guadalajara, I would guess. Perhaps Colima. From 4 PM to 6 PM this station plays Mexican ballads, circa 1950-1960. From 6 PM to 8 PM its ranchero from several periods, some of it pretty old. Great music to drink by.
Its going to be a spectacular sunset tonight as we've had some clouds and overcast late in the day.
Thursday, December 15, 2005
Did You Place Your Bet?
If you bet "yes", meaning it would all work, YOU LOSE. If you bet "no", meaning another thousand monkeys would be thrown into the mix, YOU WIN. Here I sit, foot all swollen up, unabl to to get out of this fix. The cybercafe was unable to find much less open the document I sent, saying that no document or attachment had arrived. My "sent" file indicates the contrary. More monkeys at work.
But it is a new day and we are trying yet again. I have contacted othber folks here who have computers and printers. The first person I contacted is very knowledgeable about computers but, alas does not have her printer connected as she is expecting a new computer any day (more monkeys!), The second person I contacted has a computer connected to her printer but does not have Acrobat loaded up. The third person I contacted does not have her computer OR a printer hooked up. The fourth person -- by this time I am back with the cybercafe -- tells me he does have Acrobat on one of the café's computers and that I should call back after 4 PM when Justino is there. I have re-sent the document to him and we'll see what that gets me. Otherwise we wait until next week when he gets a new ink cartridge in the FAX machine.
NEWS FLASH! My friend Carolyn (the second person) downloaded Acrobat and printed out the forms. So tomorrow we are off to Colima very early to send the papers to the US. We will reward ourselves for getting through this mess with a lovely lunch at our favorite restaurant, Kronos, where they serve great crepes. I hope we never hear about any of this again.
To while away the time while the monkeys dance, I decided to watch a movie on my laptop. It appears that my Apple DVD Player has disappeared. I am thus reduced to reading Oliver Goldsmith's The Vicar of Wakefield. I read this book in about the 8th or 9th grade and loved it. I am finding it as charming, funny, silly and as full of "rules for good living" as it was then. Perhaps even more so, given some life experience. This is the second book on our reading group list. The first is "The Bridge at San Luis Rey" which I also read years ago and have found as wonderful and instructive as I did at its first reading.
And this is the end of only the second week. Twenty-one more weeks to go.
But it is a new day and we are trying yet again. I have contacted othber folks here who have computers and printers. The first person I contacted is very knowledgeable about computers but, alas does not have her printer connected as she is expecting a new computer any day (more monkeys!), The second person I contacted has a computer connected to her printer but does not have Acrobat loaded up. The third person I contacted does not have her computer OR a printer hooked up. The fourth person -- by this time I am back with the cybercafe -- tells me he does have Acrobat on one of the café's computers and that I should call back after 4 PM when Justino is there. I have re-sent the document to him and we'll see what that gets me. Otherwise we wait until next week when he gets a new ink cartridge in the FAX machine.
NEWS FLASH! My friend Carolyn (the second person) downloaded Acrobat and printed out the forms. So tomorrow we are off to Colima very early to send the papers to the US. We will reward ourselves for getting through this mess with a lovely lunch at our favorite restaurant, Kronos, where they serve great crepes. I hope we never hear about any of this again.
To while away the time while the monkeys dance, I decided to watch a movie on my laptop. It appears that my Apple DVD Player has disappeared. I am thus reduced to reading Oliver Goldsmith's The Vicar of Wakefield. I read this book in about the 8th or 9th grade and loved it. I am finding it as charming, funny, silly and as full of "rules for good living" as it was then. Perhaps even more so, given some life experience. This is the second book on our reading group list. The first is "The Bridge at San Luis Rey" which I also read years ago and have found as wonderful and instructive as I did at its first reading.
And this is the end of only the second week. Twenty-one more weeks to go.
Wednesday, December 14, 2005
A Thousand Monkeys
Here's the situation.
The bank in the US has some forms that must be signed, returned, and received by the IRS by December 31, 2005. Sounds easy enough. I receive an email from the bank saying it has sent the materials via FedEx, addressed to us in Cuyutlán. A day or so later I receive a call from a FedEx agent asking where we would like the materials delivered since they don't know where Cuyutlán is. I say "Colima." They say "OK. The package will be there on Monday." I don't press too hard even though I know Monday is a holiday as it is Virgin of Guadalupe Day.
I receive a call from our man at the bank asking if we received the package. I say that we will be going up to Colima to get it on Tuesday since Monday . . .etc..
Tuesday morning we are on the road to Colima by 8:45. By 9:30 we are trolling Avenida San Fernando looking for the FedEx office which I know is on that road since I had been there a couple of years ago to pick up a letter from my Mother. We can't locate it so pull into the parking spots for DHL. I inquire. I am told by an incredibly surly agent that the FedEx office is down the street on the other side of the main glorietta or roundabout. Nada. What I do find is the Western Union office. So I pop in there, ask the same question, "¿Donde esta el officina de FedEx?" and am told it is the other way, next to the Bancomer bank. Back we go and where do we end up?
At the DHL office. I try again and Mr. Charm tells me this time that there is no FedEx office in Colima. We will have to go to Guadalajara. Not a chance. That's about 3 1/2 hours driving time.
I call the bank when we get home and explain what has happened. Our man at the bank calls today and says he will send the papers by FAX, then we can send them back to him by post. I tell him I will get the number of the local FAX spot and call him. I remind him that by post it can take anywhere from one to four weeks. This means we are going to have to return to Colima, chat up Mr. Charm. I am not looking forward to this. However, this story is not over.
I go downtown and go to the cybercafe/FAX place. It has moved from a ground-floor location to an upstairs spot, reachable by one of those only-in-Mexico mountain goat stairways that go straight up with narrow stairs and high risers. I get the FAX number and, while coming down, miss a step and tear up the ligaments and muscles on the top of my left foot. Fortunately I do not sprain my ankle.
I make it home, call the bank, relay the FAX number, then wait. The bank calls to say the FAX number is not working. Well, if it is between 2 PM and 4 PM, the office is closed for comida and siesta. After 4 PM I call the internet. Yes, the FAX is now on and ready to receive. I call the bank. OK, they'll send.
Fifteen minutes later I get a call from Justino, who runs the cybercafe/FAX. Yes, a FAX came for us but his FAX machine is out of ink and it didn't print well enough to be legible. So here I am, propped up in bed with an ice pack on my foot because I fell down his stairs and he's calling with this news. But hey, what can I do. The bank had also sent these documents in Acrobat as an attachment, so I said to Justino that I would forward the documents to him, he will print them on a real printer with a real ink cartridge, and then call me.
It's been half an hour. Any bets?
The bank in the US has some forms that must be signed, returned, and received by the IRS by December 31, 2005. Sounds easy enough. I receive an email from the bank saying it has sent the materials via FedEx, addressed to us in Cuyutlán. A day or so later I receive a call from a FedEx agent asking where we would like the materials delivered since they don't know where Cuyutlán is. I say "Colima." They say "OK. The package will be there on Monday." I don't press too hard even though I know Monday is a holiday as it is Virgin of Guadalupe Day.
I receive a call from our man at the bank asking if we received the package. I say that we will be going up to Colima to get it on Tuesday since Monday . . .etc..
Tuesday morning we are on the road to Colima by 8:45. By 9:30 we are trolling Avenida San Fernando looking for the FedEx office which I know is on that road since I had been there a couple of years ago to pick up a letter from my Mother. We can't locate it so pull into the parking spots for DHL. I inquire. I am told by an incredibly surly agent that the FedEx office is down the street on the other side of the main glorietta or roundabout. Nada. What I do find is the Western Union office. So I pop in there, ask the same question, "¿Donde esta el officina de FedEx?" and am told it is the other way, next to the Bancomer bank. Back we go and where do we end up?
At the DHL office. I try again and Mr. Charm tells me this time that there is no FedEx office in Colima. We will have to go to Guadalajara. Not a chance. That's about 3 1/2 hours driving time.
I call the bank when we get home and explain what has happened. Our man at the bank calls today and says he will send the papers by FAX, then we can send them back to him by post. I tell him I will get the number of the local FAX spot and call him. I remind him that by post it can take anywhere from one to four weeks. This means we are going to have to return to Colima, chat up Mr. Charm. I am not looking forward to this. However, this story is not over.
I go downtown and go to the cybercafe/FAX place. It has moved from a ground-floor location to an upstairs spot, reachable by one of those only-in-Mexico mountain goat stairways that go straight up with narrow stairs and high risers. I get the FAX number and, while coming down, miss a step and tear up the ligaments and muscles on the top of my left foot. Fortunately I do not sprain my ankle.
I make it home, call the bank, relay the FAX number, then wait. The bank calls to say the FAX number is not working. Well, if it is between 2 PM and 4 PM, the office is closed for comida and siesta. After 4 PM I call the internet. Yes, the FAX is now on and ready to receive. I call the bank. OK, they'll send.
Fifteen minutes later I get a call from Justino, who runs the cybercafe/FAX. Yes, a FAX came for us but his FAX machine is out of ink and it didn't print well enough to be legible. So here I am, propped up in bed with an ice pack on my foot because I fell down his stairs and he's calling with this news. But hey, what can I do. The bank had also sent these documents in Acrobat as an attachment, so I said to Justino that I would forward the documents to him, he will print them on a real printer with a real ink cartridge, and then call me.
It's been half an hour. Any bets?
Tuesday, December 13, 2005
It''s a Free Country
Mexico. A free country. You are free to drive around in a pick up truck with your kids and dogs in the open bed. Your kids are free to throw trash out of the truck. You are free to burn trash on the street or in your yard any time of the day or night. You are free to park your truck on the street with the radio or CD player blasting at full throttle for as long as you want. You are free to charge as much as you can get for whatever you sell at the Tianges, whether the item is marked or not. You are free to tear down your house, leave the accumulated rubble in a huge pile in the middle of the road without the slightest concern that it will be an imposition on anyone's transport on your street. And you are free to build whatever you want, how ever many stories you want it, without a worry that some pesky building inspector or City Council is going to interfere and tell you that it is too close to your neighbor, too intrusive and not in keeping with the "style" of the area, and doesn't conform to the building codes and regulations of the town.
You are free to have a religious parade through town without worrying that the ACLU is going to be on your case. You can have shrines and altars to the Virgin of Guadalupe on public property, in the street, in public restaurants without offending anyone. In fact, she gets her own holiday when banks, public businesses, the civic life of Mexico comes to a halt, and to my knowledge, nobody objects.
As I said, it's a free country.
You are free to have a religious parade through town without worrying that the ACLU is going to be on your case. You can have shrines and altars to the Virgin of Guadalupe on public property, in the street, in public restaurants without offending anyone. In fact, she gets her own holiday when banks, public businesses, the civic life of Mexico comes to a halt, and to my knowledge, nobody objects.
As I said, it's a free country.
Wednesday, December 07, 2005
Every Day is Different
When we got here a week ago the weather was gorgeous; warm, sunny, lovely balmy breezes. For the last two days it has been like a Southern California July; cool, cloudy, slightly humid. Not swimming weather. Blanket-at-night weather. But this too will change and we will be back to the relentless perfect days.
Three years ago several of us decided that what this town needed was an English language library. We arranged with the internet owner to use his back space to set up our bookshelves, catalog our books, and open for business. This place had several advantages; it was on the main street, close to hotels, and was free for us to use. The great disadvantage was that it had only half a roof. We invested in some big plastic tarps that we had to throw over the shelves whenever it rained, as it does occasionally during these winter months. We started out with about fifty books. Gradually we accumulated more and more donations until we now have over 1000 books, both paperback and hard back, every topic you can think of, quite a few reference books, even some children's books. But during last summer the internet chap decided to move his operations upstairs and he has rented the entire downstairs to another entrepreneur. So that left us without a library. Undeterred, our stalwart "head librarian" searched out another location and came up with one half of the already existing municipal library for Spanish books. The local "mayor" agreed that we could have it, again rent free, and she would have it cleaned and some minor repairs taken care of.
Today was moving day from the old space into our new library. Where the old one was dark and dank, this one is bright and airy. Where the old one had a cement floor and peeling walls, this one has a white tile floor and (fairly) clean walls. We have decided to paint the inside, with the mayor's permission, of course, to spruce it up a bit. It has some missing louvers in the windows which she has said she will replace. The building even has a kitchen and a bathroom. We're planning some chic literary soirees! Seven of us gathered in the old place this morning at 10 AM armed with boxes, plastic bags, rags and a vacuum cleaner to pack up and clean everything. Wht an incredible mess! The books had sat through the heat and dust and humidity of the summer without any protection and were a real mess. We had to throw out quite a number that were simply not salvageable. We packed two big vans full of books and carted them over to the new place, unloaded them, covered the boxes with the tarps, and will go back in a day to two to start the unpacking process. We were through by aobut noon. Once we get our library up and operating it will be very nice. We still need furniture -- a couple of tables, some more chairs (we have two) and some more book shelves. IKt's amazing and rewarding what a lot of determination and a good share of hard work can accomplish. We were all exhausted and filthy when it was over but very pleased with ourselves!
Three years ago several of us decided that what this town needed was an English language library. We arranged with the internet owner to use his back space to set up our bookshelves, catalog our books, and open for business. This place had several advantages; it was on the main street, close to hotels, and was free for us to use. The great disadvantage was that it had only half a roof. We invested in some big plastic tarps that we had to throw over the shelves whenever it rained, as it does occasionally during these winter months. We started out with about fifty books. Gradually we accumulated more and more donations until we now have over 1000 books, both paperback and hard back, every topic you can think of, quite a few reference books, even some children's books. But during last summer the internet chap decided to move his operations upstairs and he has rented the entire downstairs to another entrepreneur. So that left us without a library. Undeterred, our stalwart "head librarian" searched out another location and came up with one half of the already existing municipal library for Spanish books. The local "mayor" agreed that we could have it, again rent free, and she would have it cleaned and some minor repairs taken care of.
Today was moving day from the old space into our new library. Where the old one was dark and dank, this one is bright and airy. Where the old one had a cement floor and peeling walls, this one has a white tile floor and (fairly) clean walls. We have decided to paint the inside, with the mayor's permission, of course, to spruce it up a bit. It has some missing louvers in the windows which she has said she will replace. The building even has a kitchen and a bathroom. We're planning some chic literary soirees! Seven of us gathered in the old place this morning at 10 AM armed with boxes, plastic bags, rags and a vacuum cleaner to pack up and clean everything. Wht an incredible mess! The books had sat through the heat and dust and humidity of the summer without any protection and were a real mess. We had to throw out quite a number that were simply not salvageable. We packed two big vans full of books and carted them over to the new place, unloaded them, covered the boxes with the tarps, and will go back in a day to two to start the unpacking process. We were through by aobut noon. Once we get our library up and operating it will be very nice. We still need furniture -- a couple of tables, some more chairs (we have two) and some more book shelves. IKt's amazing and rewarding what a lot of determination and a good share of hard work can accomplish. We were all exhausted and filthy when it was over but very pleased with ourselves!
Tuesday, December 06, 2005
Happy Birthday, Andrew
Today is the seventeenth birthday of our beloved grandson, Andrew Kirk Jordan. Happy Birthday, Andrew. He is away at Thacher School in Ojai where he is in his Junior year. Where has the time gone?
Monday, December 05, 2005
Puesta del Sol
Cuyutlan is getting ready to lay on a gorgeous sunset tonight. There are long, low clouds out over the sea. The sun is sinking and bouncing rays off of their underside. I just went up to the third floor and took some photos. If I can figure out how to get them on this page I will do so, probably tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I will tell you about the celebration of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Between December 1 and 12, the Virgin enjoys unwavering worship. There are shrines to her all over our village, and over in the next town, Armeria. I am going to photograph as many as I can so you can see them. A daily celebration consists of the church bells ringing at about 5:30 AM followed by firecrackers and other bigger fireworks. This lasts about half an hour. The whole process is repeated at noon, 6:00 PM and again at about 10:00. It can be a bit unsettling, as you might imagine. The 12 days are capped by a big parade, lots of fireworks and parties. It is a bigger celebration than is Christmas, which is really quite sedate and quiet. I have never been able to find out what the fireworks are all about. Everybody I know shrugs and says,
"Tradition." The shrines are quite beautiful, some very simple and some very elaborate with twinkle lights, candles, and large statues.
Meanwhile, I will tell you about the celebration of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Between December 1 and 12, the Virgin enjoys unwavering worship. There are shrines to her all over our village, and over in the next town, Armeria. I am going to photograph as many as I can so you can see them. A daily celebration consists of the church bells ringing at about 5:30 AM followed by firecrackers and other bigger fireworks. This lasts about half an hour. The whole process is repeated at noon, 6:00 PM and again at about 10:00. It can be a bit unsettling, as you might imagine. The 12 days are capped by a big parade, lots of fireworks and parties. It is a bigger celebration than is Christmas, which is really quite sedate and quiet. I have never been able to find out what the fireworks are all about. Everybody I know shrugs and says,
"Tradition." The shrines are quite beautiful, some very simple and some very elaborate with twinkle lights, candles, and large statues.
Sunday, December 04, 2005
Estamos Aqui
It was a long, five-day drive but we made it safely on Friday afternoon. The sky is clear, the sea is blue, the breezes are soft and refreshing, the beer is cold and the salsa is hot. Did I miss anything?
We left San Diego at 5:30 Monday morning and arrived in Tucson at 1:30. We did some shopping, ate leftover Thanksgiving dinner goodies, and fell into bed early. Tuesday morning we left Tucson at 6, went by the local Starbucks to pick up a Times, and blew into El Paso by noon. We couldn't get into our room until 2 PM, so we did yet more shopping, had a great "Mexican" lunch, returned to the hotel, ate yet more leftovers for dinner and had another early night. Wednesday morning we left the hotel about 6:30 and headed for the great "crossing the border" adventure. But this time it went without a hitch; got the visas, got the car permit, sped through the inspection area without having to stop, and were on our way. This is a particularly beautiful route, down the center of the country through the mountains. The roads are good; no traffic to speak of, speed limit of 75 mph, rare cops. We arrived in Cuidad Jimenez by what we thought was 3:30 but was actually 2:30. We had been told that the time change takes effect there; in fact, it doesn't take effect until Zacatecas, the next day. When we showed up in the hotel dining room for dinner we thought it was 7:30 and wondered where everyone was. And when we showed up for the breakfast the next morning at 6 and found the dining area dark, we get the hint. So instead of hitting the road at 6:30, we actually left at 5:30.
This next portion of the drive is also very beautiful, through the mountains, but it is only a 2-lane road from Zacatecas all the way to Guadalajara. Our average speed until this time had been 63 MPH. Friday's speed was 42 MPH. However, there was remarkable little traffic, and this is the main north-south truck artery. We were very lucky on this trip. In the past we have had to contend with semi's hauling over these mountains and it's no fun.
We arrived at the beach at about 3:30 in the afternoon, a clear, warm day. The house was completely ready for us, thanks to Fernando and Chuy who set it all up and to Linda and Helen who had been staying here for about two weeks before we arrived. I felt that I had just been away for the weekend and came back to find everything as I had left it! A great psychological boost; it is not fun to unpack this house and set it up.
Not waiting a moment to get into the swing of the place, we went to a party last night given by a couple who are Mexican but live in Modesto most of the year. They have bought one of the old hotels in town, El Buccanero and are sinking capital into it to make it a much nicer place. So last night was the debut of the place. What a difference a whole lot of money can make! This place is in the perfect location for sunset watching, people watching on the malecon, and just general hanging out. They are looking for a good chef to run the dining room. Who knows? We may even get a decent place to eat.
Today was the trip to La Bodega, the supermarket in the next town to resupply the house with such necessities as tequila, Kaluha, avocados, pineapple, salsa casera, chipotle chilies, cilantro, limes, jicama, lovely juice oranges, Mexican cheddar cheese -0 - you know, the basics. And tomorrow is the tianges, the outdoor market over in Armeria. I will do some photos and try to get them up here for you to see.
Meanwhile, it is 4:15 PM, time to mosey on over to Jack's for a swim. The pool temperature is 85, just about right. Tonight is tacitos from the outdoor carts up on the square. Six littler meat tacos, beans, salad for $1.30.
I must be in Cuyutlan.
We left San Diego at 5:30 Monday morning and arrived in Tucson at 1:30. We did some shopping, ate leftover Thanksgiving dinner goodies, and fell into bed early. Tuesday morning we left Tucson at 6, went by the local Starbucks to pick up a Times, and blew into El Paso by noon. We couldn't get into our room until 2 PM, so we did yet more shopping, had a great "Mexican" lunch, returned to the hotel, ate yet more leftovers for dinner and had another early night. Wednesday morning we left the hotel about 6:30 and headed for the great "crossing the border" adventure. But this time it went without a hitch; got the visas, got the car permit, sped through the inspection area without having to stop, and were on our way. This is a particularly beautiful route, down the center of the country through the mountains. The roads are good; no traffic to speak of, speed limit of 75 mph, rare cops. We arrived in Cuidad Jimenez by what we thought was 3:30 but was actually 2:30. We had been told that the time change takes effect there; in fact, it doesn't take effect until Zacatecas, the next day. When we showed up in the hotel dining room for dinner we thought it was 7:30 and wondered where everyone was. And when we showed up for the breakfast the next morning at 6 and found the dining area dark, we get the hint. So instead of hitting the road at 6:30, we actually left at 5:30.
This next portion of the drive is also very beautiful, through the mountains, but it is only a 2-lane road from Zacatecas all the way to Guadalajara. Our average speed until this time had been 63 MPH. Friday's speed was 42 MPH. However, there was remarkable little traffic, and this is the main north-south truck artery. We were very lucky on this trip. In the past we have had to contend with semi's hauling over these mountains and it's no fun.
We arrived at the beach at about 3:30 in the afternoon, a clear, warm day. The house was completely ready for us, thanks to Fernando and Chuy who set it all up and to Linda and Helen who had been staying here for about two weeks before we arrived. I felt that I had just been away for the weekend and came back to find everything as I had left it! A great psychological boost; it is not fun to unpack this house and set it up.
Not waiting a moment to get into the swing of the place, we went to a party last night given by a couple who are Mexican but live in Modesto most of the year. They have bought one of the old hotels in town, El Buccanero and are sinking capital into it to make it a much nicer place. So last night was the debut of the place. What a difference a whole lot of money can make! This place is in the perfect location for sunset watching, people watching on the malecon, and just general hanging out. They are looking for a good chef to run the dining room. Who knows? We may even get a decent place to eat.
Today was the trip to La Bodega, the supermarket in the next town to resupply the house with such necessities as tequila, Kaluha, avocados, pineapple, salsa casera, chipotle chilies, cilantro, limes, jicama, lovely juice oranges, Mexican cheddar cheese -0 - you know, the basics. And tomorrow is the tianges, the outdoor market over in Armeria. I will do some photos and try to get them up here for you to see.
Meanwhile, it is 4:15 PM, time to mosey on over to Jack's for a swim. The pool temperature is 85, just about right. Tonight is tacitos from the outdoor carts up on the square. Six littler meat tacos, beans, salad for $1.30.
I must be in Cuyutlan.
Monday, November 28, 2005
Monday Morning Departure
It is 5:15 AM on a clear, cold morning and we are about to get on the road for Tucson. Next posting will probably not be until Cuyutlan next weekend. Goodbys have been said, baby kissed, so it's time to go. Kaley, Rob and Ruby have left for the airport and their home in Connecticut. See you at the beach!
Sunday, November 27, 2005
The Beautious K.C.
This is the wonderful dog that has been a part of the Strane (Vic and Tom) family for 15+ years. She has such a beautiful face and a glorious, thick coat of fur, and a sweet, patient temperament. But the body has grown old and infirm, and her days are down to a precious few. In fact, perhaps only one or two. But she will be long remembered with great affection.
Saturday, November 26, 2005
Friday, November 25, 2005
Post-feast
Most of today was spent digesting yesterday. We also spent some time at the Cathedral in San Diego arranging for the service to commit my mother's ashes to the columbarium on Sunday and doing a bit of shopping. Then Vic and I went to see "Goodnight, and Good Luck," the film about Edward R. Murrow, the making of the CBS news department, the downfall of Joseph McCarthy and the personalities that shaped the TV of the 50's and 60's. A brilliant piece of work. Especially for those of us who remember the times. Extraordinary performance by David Straithorn who plays Murrow.
Ruby and her family went to the San Diego Zoo today. She saw the monkey cage, a few birds and a flamingo and fell asleep. Maybe next year . . .
Tomorrow we go see "Rent." I must get my film fix before a 5-month drought.
Also bought a digital camera to keep a pictoral record of this year's beach stay. I hope to figure out how to get pictures up here without Andrew pushing all the buttons. I did figure out how to get the date and time into the camera. That's the first step.
Ruby and her family went to the San Diego Zoo today. She saw the monkey cage, a few birds and a flamingo and fell asleep. Maybe next year . . .
Tomorrow we go see "Rent." I must get my film fix before a 5-month drought.
Also bought a digital camera to keep a pictoral record of this year's beach stay. I hope to figure out how to get pictures up here without Andrew pushing all the buttons. I did figure out how to get the date and time into the camera. That's the first step.
Thursday, November 24, 2005
Happy Thanksgiving
Here's what was happening at our house, or at Vic's house. We had 22 people for a delicious dinner of tomato soup, turkey, mashed potatoes, braised brussel sprouts, green beans, sweet potato and apple casserole, cranberry sauce, pecan, apple, minced meat and pumpkin pies, coffee, mints, and sparkling wine. It was all just too wonderful for words. We all hope your Thanksgiving was as loving and delicious as was ours.
The Patriarch. This is Captain John Strane, USN Ret., the beloved and charming father of Tom and Jeff, Susan and Steven Strane.
The Table. This is one of the three tables. This one was set with my mother's china and silver. The other tables were set with Strane family treasures.
The bartender:
The Ruby:
The mother and father of The Ruby:
The fabulous venue:
The Patriarch. This is Captain John Strane, USN Ret., the beloved and charming father of Tom and Jeff, Susan and Steven Strane.
The Table. This is one of the three tables. This one was set with my mother's china and silver. The other tables were set with Strane family treasures.
The bartender:
The Ruby:
The mother and father of The Ruby:
The fabulous venue:
Tuesday, November 22, 2005
The Second Oasis
It is a bright and balmy Tuesday in San Diego. The route here was once the most popular way to travel through Southern California. As a child I had been on Highway 1 every summer, to and from our vacation house in Newport Beach. Corona del Mar through Laguna Beach, San Clemente, Dana Point, Leucadia, Encinitas, Carlsbad, Cardiff by the Sea, Solana Beach, Del Mar, La Jolla. Then back onto the I-5 speedway for a quick trip to Vicky's house in San Diego. And of course, more Ruby time.
On the refrigerator door are four charts that serve as the "game plan" for the next three days. Everyone has been assigned duties and a time slot for the completion of said duties. My duty for today is to prepare a sweet potatoe casserole using Vic's recipe. Even the job of polishing the silverware has been assigned and that chore is to be completed this afternoon. These people are WAY too organized! However, if there are going to be 23 guests at your house I guess you better have some idea about how you're going to get all these things done.
Yesterday after doing some banking business we went over to see the old beach house that was sold 4 years ago. The new owners have done a bit of remodeling, planted a lovely new garden, painted the house, and generally upgraded. We parked the car and took the same walk along the beach "boardwalk" that I had walked since I was about 6 or 7 years old. Remember that Newport Beach was, for the most part, a summer resort, so most houses were shut up during the winter or used only on weekends or holidays. Not anymore. Some of the houses along the oceanfront walk are lived in year-round or rented year round and there are very few of the little single story wood frame style homes left. They have been razed and in their stead are two- and three-story jobs built out to the full extent of the lot lines. There is probably three feet between the houses so none gets any side light. The front opens directly onto the sidewalk; almost no front gardens, definitely no side or back gardens. Of course, the view is from here to Catalina on a clear day, the blue ocean and sandy beach across the street. I guess that makes up for a lot. In the old days the boardwalk was exactly that; a board walk. It is now a wide cement walkway that has bike riders, joggers, skateboarders, roller skaters, and the occasional intrepid walker who tries to stay out of everyone's path! We walked down to the Newport Pier, then out to the end to see if the optimistic fishermen had caught anything. In all the years I have been walking that pier I don't remember seeing any catch; the pleasure seems to come from the trying. At the end of the pier is a little cafe where my father would take me early in the morning after we had walked from our house to the little market to get an LA Times. Mother would say, as we left, "Now Don, don't buy her any coffee. You know how she gets!" And so we would sit at one of the little tables, Daddy with his coffee, me with my cup of 1/3 coffee, 2/3 milk, reading the paper and watching the fishermen pull their boats up on the beach and unload the morning catch to be sold at an open fish market at the foot of the pier. The fish market is still there, still a bustling place early in the morning.
Forty-two years ago today John F. Kennedy was assassinated. Interesting what you remember.
On the refrigerator door are four charts that serve as the "game plan" for the next three days. Everyone has been assigned duties and a time slot for the completion of said duties. My duty for today is to prepare a sweet potatoe casserole using Vic's recipe. Even the job of polishing the silverware has been assigned and that chore is to be completed this afternoon. These people are WAY too organized! However, if there are going to be 23 guests at your house I guess you better have some idea about how you're going to get all these things done.
Yesterday after doing some banking business we went over to see the old beach house that was sold 4 years ago. The new owners have done a bit of remodeling, planted a lovely new garden, painted the house, and generally upgraded. We parked the car and took the same walk along the beach "boardwalk" that I had walked since I was about 6 or 7 years old. Remember that Newport Beach was, for the most part, a summer resort, so most houses were shut up during the winter or used only on weekends or holidays. Not anymore. Some of the houses along the oceanfront walk are lived in year-round or rented year round and there are very few of the little single story wood frame style homes left. They have been razed and in their stead are two- and three-story jobs built out to the full extent of the lot lines. There is probably three feet between the houses so none gets any side light. The front opens directly onto the sidewalk; almost no front gardens, definitely no side or back gardens. Of course, the view is from here to Catalina on a clear day, the blue ocean and sandy beach across the street. I guess that makes up for a lot. In the old days the boardwalk was exactly that; a board walk. It is now a wide cement walkway that has bike riders, joggers, skateboarders, roller skaters, and the occasional intrepid walker who tries to stay out of everyone's path! We walked down to the Newport Pier, then out to the end to see if the optimistic fishermen had caught anything. In all the years I have been walking that pier I don't remember seeing any catch; the pleasure seems to come from the trying. At the end of the pier is a little cafe where my father would take me early in the morning after we had walked from our house to the little market to get an LA Times. Mother would say, as we left, "Now Don, don't buy her any coffee. You know how she gets!" And so we would sit at one of the little tables, Daddy with his coffee, me with my cup of 1/3 coffee, 2/3 milk, reading the paper and watching the fishermen pull their boats up on the beach and unload the morning catch to be sold at an open fish market at the foot of the pier. The fish market is still there, still a bustling place early in the morning.
Forty-two years ago today John F. Kennedy was assassinated. Interesting what you remember.
Saturday, November 19, 2005
First Oasis
This safari has safely reached its first oasis, that of Long Beach. We had a long but uneventful drive down I-99 through the middle of California, with the usual pauses at various Rest Stops along the way. The early morning was beautifully clear, no fog, gorgeous sun rise somewhere neart Stockton. There was not much early morning traffic, especially for a Friday. By the time we reached Fresno we had entered the mid-valley smog belt, as bad as Los angeles. But at the top of the Grapevine, clear, high blue skies before sliding down the other side into the greenish-yellowish LA basin. We drove down 405 past the gleaming Getty Museum perched up on the hillside. I have yet to visit there; it's on my list for next year.
Today my grand niece Ruby, age 8 months, and her parents -- visiting from Connecticut for two weeks -- and grandparents drove up from San Diego for a family weekend, including a pre-Thanksgiving celebration at daughter Alex's house. This is where we're sitting:
Everyone will be here except Caitlin and Mike; they're frolicking in the snow in Montana instead of lounging around in this unseasonably balmy Southern California sunshine. This is a grand gathering, with Andrew home from school, Emily providing dazzling beauty to the assembled group, Alex and Peter laying on a delicious bounty,
and baby Ruby giving the future a hopeful head start. It is wonderful to have a baby in the family, especially one as cute lively as this one! I am going to get someone to take a picture of Ruby and me and I will then attempt to put it up on this blog.
The next installment of this saga will be from our second oasis, that of my sister's house in San Diego. We will hang out for about a week, including Thanksgiving, before heading east through Tucson to El Paso and then south into Mexico. So stay tuned.
Today my grand niece Ruby, age 8 months, and her parents -- visiting from Connecticut for two weeks -- and grandparents drove up from San Diego for a family weekend, including a pre-Thanksgiving celebration at daughter Alex's house. This is where we're sitting:
Everyone will be here except Caitlin and Mike; they're frolicking in the snow in Montana instead of lounging around in this unseasonably balmy Southern California sunshine. This is a grand gathering, with Andrew home from school, Emily providing dazzling beauty to the assembled group, Alex and Peter laying on a delicious bounty,
and baby Ruby giving the future a hopeful head start. It is wonderful to have a baby in the family, especially one as cute lively as this one! I am going to get someone to take a picture of Ruby and me and I will then attempt to put it up on this blog.
The next installment of this saga will be from our second oasis, that of my sister's house in San Diego. We will hang out for about a week, including Thanksgiving, before heading east through Tucson to El Paso and then south into Mexico. So stay tuned.
Friday, November 18, 2005
Go!
I woke this morning at about 3:30 to the sound of the freight train rolling through Davis, way off in the distance. It reminded me that the next time I hear a train at that hour -- or perhaps a bit later -- will be in Cuyutlan. The early morning flyer chugs through the village at about 5 AM. Since there are no safety crossings, no lights, no bells, no barrier bar that comes down across the roads, the train starts its lonesome whistle about three miles down the track and keeps it up until it is through town. I love hearing it. It is so still, except for the shuss of the surf out the open slider, and then from way off, almost to Armeria, comes the sound of the approaching train. However, after about a week I sleep right through it.
It is a clear, cold morning, perfect for traveling. I have been checking the weather faithfully to see if we are going to have fog in the valley. Looks good. The coffee is perking, the lunch is made, the bags are packed, surfaces have been cleared of the usual detritus of daily life. Gee, everything looks great. We should do this more often!
Next stop? Long Beach.
It is a clear, cold morning, perfect for traveling. I have been checking the weather faithfully to see if we are going to have fog in the valley. Looks good. The coffee is perking, the lunch is made, the bags are packed, surfaces have been cleared of the usual detritus of daily life. Gee, everything looks great. We should do this more often!
Next stop? Long Beach.
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Set . . .
This is our last day here in the beautiful autumn of Davis. It's hard to believe that it is the end of November; students are around in shorts and tank tops, people are actually using air conditioning or driving around with car windows wide open. I even looked longingly at the pool thinking that if we had kept the cover on we could probably be swimming. The outdoor tables at The Bistro in downtown Davis were filled with lunchers enjoying the sunshine. Still the trees are all turning red and gold, leaves are dropping by the basket-full, and there is a rumor that Thanksgiving will be here next week, despite the balmy weather.
I spent the morning packing, cleaning, moving boxes from inside to the garage to be put into the car. It's pretty much loaded up and ready to go. Fortunately several boxes will be left in both Long Beach and San Diego as Santa offerings and we will then have a bit of breathing room. This afternoon was the pre-Mexico hair cut (really short, but not quite as short as the Italian cut of a year ago. See The Haircut, December 3, 2004.) Then on to the pedicure palace for a bit more pampering before hitting the beach. I have been a bit wary of having all this done in Mexico, but at least this year I am going to go to the local hair cutting emporium, point to my hair and tell them I'll be back in 6 weeks and I want the same. I'll let you know how it works.
We expect a cold, clear morning tomorrow for our early drive out of here. The plan is to be on the road by 6 AM. Right now I have to dismantle my computer and pack it up for the long drive. Next news will be from San Diego.
I spent the morning packing, cleaning, moving boxes from inside to the garage to be put into the car. It's pretty much loaded up and ready to go. Fortunately several boxes will be left in both Long Beach and San Diego as Santa offerings and we will then have a bit of breathing room. This afternoon was the pre-Mexico hair cut (really short, but not quite as short as the Italian cut of a year ago. See The Haircut, December 3, 2004.) Then on to the pedicure palace for a bit more pampering before hitting the beach. I have been a bit wary of having all this done in Mexico, but at least this year I am going to go to the local hair cutting emporium, point to my hair and tell them I'll be back in 6 weeks and I want the same. I'll let you know how it works.
We expect a cold, clear morning tomorrow for our early drive out of here. The plan is to be on the road by 6 AM. Right now I have to dismantle my computer and pack it up for the long drive. Next news will be from San Diego.
Wednesday, November 16, 2005
Ready . . .
The house is clean (almost), the CDs have been sorted for travel, the books packed, the car is in the shop getting all spiffed up for the long ride, the garage is full of boxes to be stowed in the car, lists have been made and gradually crossed off, phone calls made to friends and family saying "Adios" so I guess we're almost ready to drive off. It is a huge chore getting all of this done here; then in five months we have to do it all over again in Cuyutlan. But in truth, it's worth it. We leave behind TV, incessant bad news, the hype and glitz and noise of everyday living. We take up the sound of the sea, occasional trains, siestas in the hammock on the third floor terrazo under the palapa. But after five months, for some reason, the soul gets hungry for its own language, its own place. But meanwhile, it's wonderful.
Tonight we have dinner with friends. Tomorrow is the haircut, last of the bank business,then early to bed. We hope to get out of here by about 5:30 Friday morning, headed for Southern California and family. Let's see if we make it.
By the way, if you have not already done so, I highly recommend a great read, The Kite Runner by Kahlid Housseini. I went to hear him speak at the beautiful Mondavi Center in Davis on Monday evening. What a remarkable story, not only the novel but his own life. Put it on your list.
Tonight we have dinner with friends. Tomorrow is the haircut, last of the bank business,then early to bed. We hope to get out of here by about 5:30 Friday morning, headed for Southern California and family. Let's see if we make it.
By the way, if you have not already done so, I highly recommend a great read, The Kite Runner by Kahlid Housseini. I went to hear him speak at the beautiful Mondavi Center in Davis on Monday evening. What a remarkable story, not only the novel but his own life. Put it on your list.
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