This afternoon I took a walk along the malecon, the walkway that runs along the ocean front and beach. The weather has been overcast and humid for the last couple of days, only adding to the oppressive atmosphere. The puestos were shut up for the most part, the chairs and tables collapsed and piled up and roped together, the umbrellas furled and tied close. The sidewalk was deserted, the hotel verandas empty, the houses shut tight. Palm trees planted by the town have been sadly neglected and are in desperate need of trimming and of having their coconuts harvested. Garden walls of the houses along the way are chipped and cracked, a combination of usual disintegration and the earthquake of 2003. There are benches and cement seating areas along the malecon that are in dire need of paint and repair. The whole place had an eerie sense of total abandonment; even the beach dogs were not in evidence. Nobody was swimming in the ocean, nobody on the beach, nobody on the walkways. It was very still, the feeling before a big storm, but there were no clouds and no wind. It was a perfect setting for a indy movie about some 3rd rate seedy, dilapidated, deserted Mexican beach town sweltering under a tropical sun, waiting for something to happen.
Like a South-of-the-border "High Noon."
Like Cuyutlán.
Monday, January 30, 2006
Sunday, January 29, 2006
La Biblioteca
Three years ago a group of avid reading gringas decided to start a library. The prime mover and shaker is a woman who was a professional librarian and embarked on the same task in Ajijic, a gringo-centrist town on Lake Chapala, near Guadalajara. Our original location was in the back of the internet café. We had no roof over our books, rusty, rickety shelves to house our collection of rather pathetic paperbacks, which numbered about 100. We distributed flyers to all the local hotels telling their guests that we were open for business and welcomed readers.
By the second year of operations we had about 500 books in our collection. Before we all went home in May we had pulled the shelves away from the walls and draped them with big tarps to shield them from the rain. The books had weathered the summer storms pretty well. During our second year in the internet café back room we signed up more members, collected more books, kept regular hours, and were generally pretty satisfied with our progress.
Then in September we learned that the owner of the internet café was moving his business to another location and the new tenant wanted all the space for storage for his shop. We had to get out before Christmas. A couple of our intrepid founders shopped around town, talked to La Presidenta, the elected "city councilwoman" for Cuyutlán, who suggested we might use half of the already-extant Municipal Library. The building has two large rooms, one of which is now a Spanish language library, a kitchen, two baños, and a large, airy foyer. After careful inspection by all of us, we decided it was a great deal and agreed to move. We bought paint and hired a guy to paint everything, got the space cleaned up, replaced broken windows, bought $400 US worth of bookshelves, boxed up all the books and loaded them in cars and took them to their new home. Now, after about three weeks of cleaning, cataloging and shelving books, we are almost ready for our grand opening. We now have well over 1000 books neatly cataloged and shelved a nice reading area, tables and chairs, a solid roof over our heads and a moderately organized staffing plan. It's amazing what 6 or 7 determined, hard-working gringas can do.
Today is our 42nd wedding anniversary. Amazing.
By the second year of operations we had about 500 books in our collection. Before we all went home in May we had pulled the shelves away from the walls and draped them with big tarps to shield them from the rain. The books had weathered the summer storms pretty well. During our second year in the internet café back room we signed up more members, collected more books, kept regular hours, and were generally pretty satisfied with our progress.
Then in September we learned that the owner of the internet café was moving his business to another location and the new tenant wanted all the space for storage for his shop. We had to get out before Christmas. A couple of our intrepid founders shopped around town, talked to La Presidenta, the elected "city councilwoman" for Cuyutlán, who suggested we might use half of the already-extant Municipal Library. The building has two large rooms, one of which is now a Spanish language library, a kitchen, two baños, and a large, airy foyer. After careful inspection by all of us, we decided it was a great deal and agreed to move. We bought paint and hired a guy to paint everything, got the space cleaned up, replaced broken windows, bought $400 US worth of bookshelves, boxed up all the books and loaded them in cars and took them to their new home. Now, after about three weeks of cleaning, cataloging and shelving books, we are almost ready for our grand opening. We now have well over 1000 books neatly cataloged and shelved a nice reading area, tables and chairs, a solid roof over our heads and a moderately organized staffing plan. It's amazing what 6 or 7 determined, hard-working gringas can do.
Today is our 42nd wedding anniversary. Amazing.
Sunday, January 22, 2006
And as a side dish . . .
We are back in Cuyutlán after 10 days away to San Miguel de Allende and Patzcuaro. Weather there warm and lovely during the day, very cold at night. Especially in Patzcuaro where there was no heat in the hotel, the walls were thick adobe which never get warm in the winter but stay cool in the summer. But this is winter, so . . .
This is the third anniversary of the severe earthquake that hit our village, all the towns around us, and the capital city of Colima. There was enormous damage, especially to the historic areas of Colima where the original adobe buildings were located. Cuyutlan also suffered much admage from which it has not yet recovered.
Tonight being Sunday, dinner comes from the vendors up at the jardin. As usual, it is five or six tacitos, some beans, a bit of salad and a grilled onion. At this particular wagon, our favorite, Mama is cooking, sister is putting the take-away plates together, and the younger brother, about 14 or so, is sitting behind the wagon, being generally 14 and bored. The wagon has florescent lights over the cooking area, which is a big wok-style cooking pan in which the meat and the onions are deep-fried. There are some sort of large bugs swarming around the lights. The kid picks up one of the Styrofoam plates, swats at a bug, and tosses it into the bubbling fat. Mama lets it sizzle a moment, then fishes it out and puts it up on the edge of the cooking pot. He does it a couple more times. So does she. What happens to these tasty, toasty morsels I do not want to know.
Buen provecho!
This is the third anniversary of the severe earthquake that hit our village, all the towns around us, and the capital city of Colima. There was enormous damage, especially to the historic areas of Colima where the original adobe buildings were located. Cuyutlan also suffered much admage from which it has not yet recovered.
Tonight being Sunday, dinner comes from the vendors up at the jardin. As usual, it is five or six tacitos, some beans, a bit of salad and a grilled onion. At this particular wagon, our favorite, Mama is cooking, sister is putting the take-away plates together, and the younger brother, about 14 or so, is sitting behind the wagon, being generally 14 and bored. The wagon has florescent lights over the cooking area, which is a big wok-style cooking pan in which the meat and the onions are deep-fried. There are some sort of large bugs swarming around the lights. The kid picks up one of the Styrofoam plates, swats at a bug, and tosses it into the bubbling fat. Mama lets it sizzle a moment, then fishes it out and puts it up on the edge of the cooking pot. He does it a couple more times. So does she. What happens to these tasty, toasty morsels I do not want to know.
Buen provecho!
Sunday, January 15, 2006
In San Miguel
Overheard at the Instituto de Allende Arts and Crafts Fair this afternoon:
She: What kind of art do you like?
He: I like art I can understand easily.
She: Hummmmm. Well, good luck.
She: What kind of art do you like?
He: I like art I can understand easily.
She: Hummmmm. Well, good luck.
Thursday, January 12, 2006
From San Miguel de Allende
Drive here long -- 400 miles in 8 hours -- and fairly boring, but there were some high spots. Acres and acres (or rather hectares and hectares) of agave plants, soon to become tequila. The plants are a dusty blue-grey color, and from a distance they appear to be a beautiful lake. They will soon be a lake of booze.
Apartment is lovely, in a good location, very comfortable. Weather perfect; warm and sunny in the daytime, clear and cold at night. There is more English heard here than Spanish. But the town still has a lovely colonial look, with houses all painted a different color, lovely gardens behind plain streetfronts, ankle-twisting cobblestone streets, sidewalks about 18¨wide. A shoppiing mecca. This internet cafe is the same one I used the last time I was here, two years ago. Remarkable longevity! And I am now off to the fish taco stand for lunch, same place as in the past.
Apartment is lovely, in a good location, very comfortable. Weather perfect; warm and sunny in the daytime, clear and cold at night. There is more English heard here than Spanish. But the town still has a lovely colonial look, with houses all painted a different color, lovely gardens behind plain streetfronts, ankle-twisting cobblestone streets, sidewalks about 18¨wide. A shoppiing mecca. This internet cafe is the same one I used the last time I was here, two years ago. Remarkable longevity! And I am now off to the fish taco stand for lunch, same place as in the past.
Tuesday, January 10, 2006
Hasta Luego
Mañana we take off for San Miguel de Allende in the cool (cold?) mountains of the state of Guanajuato. It should take us about 6 hours +/- to get there. We have rented an apartment for a week. There is always lots to see and do in San Miguel; galleries, concerts every night at one place or another, good restaurants, and wonderful streets for walking and looking and, at times, buying. Part of the reason for going is to take a side trip to Delores Hidalgo, headquarters for the BEST tile and talavera shops around. We will also go to Guanajuato, a wonderful old colonial city perched up on hills. The main roads in this beautiful city are underground in the old network of aqueducts. Driving through the city is a real challenge; once you get in there, how to you get out? There is also a mummy museum. There is some chemical in the soil that mummifies bodies when buried. At the time of a huge earthquake, hundreds of long-buried and perfectly preserved bodies were heaved up from their burial sites. What to do, what to do? How about a museum? So these bodies were sealed in glass crypts and are now on display. This is NOT my favorite museum.
Then it will be on to Patzcuaro, headquarters for the BEST fabrics in the area. There are small villages around the area that have beautiful crafts, including wood carving and pottery.
I will try to keep this site up to date on the happenings during this little trip. I will be dependent on the local cybercafes, of which there were many the last time I was there.
The Cuyutlán reading group discussed The Vicar of Wakefield today, and opinions were all over the map. Some liked it, some didn't. But no matter, it is always a valuable and welcome exercise to talk about what we read. Next book: Hard Times on January 30. That should be a good one!
News from the Sick Room: the patient is much improved.
I am starting the search for the perfect apartment in Florence for next fall. Any ideas or suggestions?
Then it will be on to Patzcuaro, headquarters for the BEST fabrics in the area. There are small villages around the area that have beautiful crafts, including wood carving and pottery.
I will try to keep this site up to date on the happenings during this little trip. I will be dependent on the local cybercafes, of which there were many the last time I was there.
The Cuyutlán reading group discussed The Vicar of Wakefield today, and opinions were all over the map. Some liked it, some didn't. But no matter, it is always a valuable and welcome exercise to talk about what we read. Next book: Hard Times on January 30. That should be a good one!
News from the Sick Room: the patient is much improved.
I am starting the search for the perfect apartment in Florence for next fall. Any ideas or suggestions?
Sunday, January 08, 2006
14th Night
Or, 12th Night plus two.
On 12th Night, also called Dia de los Reyes and Dia de los Niños, we had a wonderful party up on the 3rd floor. Eighteen of us watched the sunset, battled the mosquitoes for about a half hour until they moved on, then sat down to a lovely dinner prepared by both the resident chefs and the assembled guests. (I don't know the word for "potluck" in Spanish.) It was great fun to all be together after a couple of weeks of pauses between parties. The evening was wonderfully mild with not much breeze. The sky was very clear and we have about a half-moon. Full moon is not expected for another week or so; we'll have one in San Miguel.
Today, Sunday, we went down to a party with an absolutely delightful Canadian pair for a ping-pong fest. We ended up drinking a lot of wine, eating some delicious bocas, and talking about politics, both American and Canadian. A lovely, lazy way to spend the day.
News from the medical front: Vicky is home from the hospital after 20 days. She is very weak, but very happy to be out of confinement. It will take a while to get her back into fighting trim, but that WILL happen. Stay tuned.
Since it's Sunday, it's tacitos at the square for dinner. Tomorrow, since it will be Monday, it'stinages. So goes life here at the beach.
On 12th Night, also called Dia de los Reyes and Dia de los Niños, we had a wonderful party up on the 3rd floor. Eighteen of us watched the sunset, battled the mosquitoes for about a half hour until they moved on, then sat down to a lovely dinner prepared by both the resident chefs and the assembled guests. (I don't know the word for "potluck" in Spanish.) It was great fun to all be together after a couple of weeks of pauses between parties. The evening was wonderfully mild with not much breeze. The sky was very clear and we have about a half-moon. Full moon is not expected for another week or so; we'll have one in San Miguel.
Today, Sunday, we went down to a party with an absolutely delightful Canadian pair for a ping-pong fest. We ended up drinking a lot of wine, eating some delicious bocas, and talking about politics, both American and Canadian. A lovely, lazy way to spend the day.
News from the medical front: Vicky is home from the hospital after 20 days. She is very weak, but very happy to be out of confinement. It will take a while to get her back into fighting trim, but that WILL happen. Stay tuned.
Since it's Sunday, it's tacitos at the square for dinner. Tomorrow, since it will be Monday, it'stinages. So goes life here at the beach.
Wednesday, January 04, 2006
Into the Breach
Well actually, into the ditch. Yes, I drove the car into a ditch. Not really a ditch, but off the road into rubble and sand. I was paying a visit to friends who live w-a-y out in the Colonia, almost at the end of the road. I got in the car to come home, was making a U-turn, sneezed and couldn't find the brake and just rolled across the road, off the tarmac, through a low pile of construction rubble and into the sand. Now what? I threw it into reverse and gave it a go, but only succeeded in spinning my wheels. So I got out of the car, went pack to our friends' house with my tale of woe. No problem! Chris has a 4-wheel drive and would attach a rope and pull me out. So he and his wife, Robbie, got in their car, Chris tied the two cars together and attempted to pull me back onto to road. The rope broke.
Pretty soon a pick-up truck with two adults, one teenager and two younger boys pulled off to the side, hopped out and were ready to help. One of the adults spoke perfect English. Always a help, especially as Chris is Dutch and doesn't speak much Spanish and I had forgotten the word for chain (it's cadena). Chris found another rope and attached the two cars. The fellows went through the rubble under my car and found some bricks and other smooth-sided cement pieces and put them under the front tires. The two younger boys sat in the back of the van for ballast. With the three men in front, Robbie driving, Chris directing, and a couple of false starts, the van finally was pushed/pulled out of the sand and back onto the road, with no apparent damage to either car or people. This is the second time we have been rescued by Good Samaratins who are so kind, so helpful. I think it may have something to do with the fact that they break down so often they just reach out to other road casualties.
Hospital report from last night was that Vic was still unable to eat as she is constantly nauseous. Nobody can figure this out; not the cardiologist, not the nephrologist, not the endocrinologist. No "ologist" they can come up with can diagnose this. So the next one with be a gastroentorologist. All of her "numbers" are good; blood pressure, blood glucose, heart rate, pulse, oxygenation. I will call again tonight to see if any progress has been made.
Who came over to see us? First was Jose, the carpenter who is making a new door for the wall between our back garden and the lot next door (which will soon be ours). The door is beautiful; not it just has to be hung.
The second was Fernando with two fish he had caught. I think he got tired of driving the taxi, had a cold, so went to Manzanillo to fish with his brother. I gave one away, the other I am cooking for dinner. Recipe? Take a whole fish . . .
Pretty soon a pick-up truck with two adults, one teenager and two younger boys pulled off to the side, hopped out and were ready to help. One of the adults spoke perfect English. Always a help, especially as Chris is Dutch and doesn't speak much Spanish and I had forgotten the word for chain (it's cadena). Chris found another rope and attached the two cars. The fellows went through the rubble under my car and found some bricks and other smooth-sided cement pieces and put them under the front tires. The two younger boys sat in the back of the van for ballast. With the three men in front, Robbie driving, Chris directing, and a couple of false starts, the van finally was pushed/pulled out of the sand and back onto the road, with no apparent damage to either car or people. This is the second time we have been rescued by Good Samaratins who are so kind, so helpful. I think it may have something to do with the fact that they break down so often they just reach out to other road casualties.
Hospital report from last night was that Vic was still unable to eat as she is constantly nauseous. Nobody can figure this out; not the cardiologist, not the nephrologist, not the endocrinologist. No "ologist" they can come up with can diagnose this. So the next one with be a gastroentorologist. All of her "numbers" are good; blood pressure, blood glucose, heart rate, pulse, oxygenation. I will call again tonight to see if any progress has been made.
Who came over to see us? First was Jose, the carpenter who is making a new door for the wall between our back garden and the lot next door (which will soon be ours). The door is beautiful; not it just has to be hung.
The second was Fernando with two fish he had caught. I think he got tired of driving the taxi, had a cold, so went to Manzanillo to fish with his brother. I gave one away, the other I am cooking for dinner. Recipe? Take a whole fish . . .
Monday, January 02, 2006
El Afilador
This morning the knife sharpener came through town, ringing his cow bell to announce that he was here to sharpen knives, scissors, machetes, any other tools or implements that need a honed edge. He rides on his three-wheeled bicycle with his big basket in back carrying his pedal-driven whetstone. You gather up all your dull knives, etc., carry them out to him and he grinds the edges to a fine sharpness. All this for about 10 pesos, or 95 cents. Of course, a machete is more. I think this is the same chap who has been doing this for 15 years. Same bell, same bicycle, same whetstone.
Not many shoppers at the tianges this morning. Gorgeous, ripe, juicy strawberries and avocados down to about 20 cents each.
We have been here for one month today. Four more to enjoy.
Not many shoppers at the tianges this morning. Gorgeous, ripe, juicy strawberries and avocados down to about 20 cents each.
We have been here for one month today. Four more to enjoy.
Sunday, January 01, 2006
It's a New Year
We walked into town last night for dinner at the latest restaurant incarnation; a combo eatery and furniture shop. Very good food; better tasting than the sofas are looking. Then we walked the malecon to check out the hotels and the party-goers. Actually not much action at that time -- about 8 o'clock -- but things would get livelier as the even wore on. Like a couple of dottering old seniors, we were in bed by 10 PM.
Around midnight our phone rang and a jolly celebrating woman was only too eager to chat me up until I asked who she was. There was a long pause. I could hear the laughter and music in the background. I don't know how to say, "Sorry, wrong number" in Spanish, so I just hung up. The revellers on the next street over (there is one other house on our street) finally pitched it in about 5 AM this morning. It was a fine party. We all heard it. Actually some great singing and nice dance music. We think they were celebrating in town earlier, things got quiet there so they all removed to their home. I saw a couple of them late this morning, looking a bit tired and hung over.
Today the village is jumping with both weekenders and day-trippers. Lots of cars parked all over the place, mostly haphazardly, stacked three and four deep. As usual, several car alarms have gone off while the owners are frolicking on the beach, oblivious to the noise. The ice cream vendor has been driving his truck all over town all day, playing the same jingle over and over, touting his wares in a flat, monotonous voice. This same wagon has been driving around here for as long as I've been coming--about 15 years. Same jingle. Same spiel.
Since it's Sunday that means tacitos from the stand up in the jardin. Six little pork tacitos, beans, radishes, grilled onions, all for 25 pesos (about $2.30). That and a cold Indio will bring you a little bit of heaven.
Around midnight our phone rang and a jolly celebrating woman was only too eager to chat me up until I asked who she was. There was a long pause. I could hear the laughter and music in the background. I don't know how to say, "Sorry, wrong number" in Spanish, so I just hung up. The revellers on the next street over (there is one other house on our street) finally pitched it in about 5 AM this morning. It was a fine party. We all heard it. Actually some great singing and nice dance music. We think they were celebrating in town earlier, things got quiet there so they all removed to their home. I saw a couple of them late this morning, looking a bit tired and hung over.
Today the village is jumping with both weekenders and day-trippers. Lots of cars parked all over the place, mostly haphazardly, stacked three and four deep. As usual, several car alarms have gone off while the owners are frolicking on the beach, oblivious to the noise. The ice cream vendor has been driving his truck all over town all day, playing the same jingle over and over, touting his wares in a flat, monotonous voice. This same wagon has been driving around here for as long as I've been coming--about 15 years. Same jingle. Same spiel.
Since it's Sunday that means tacitos from the stand up in the jardin. Six little pork tacitos, beans, radishes, grilled onions, all for 25 pesos (about $2.30). That and a cold Indio will bring you a little bit of heaven.
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