Good Friday

Our lovely little village, population 2500, is now bursting at the seams with about 15,000 revelers; campers, holiday residents, hotel guests, day-trippers, and, of course, the upstanding citizens of Cuyutlán. This afternoon the disco cranked up at 4 PM, shattering a momentary calm in the week's din. The visitors began arriving this year on Monday, two days earlier than usual, with a big wave of in-town campers arriving late Wednesday and throughout the night. By Thursday morning there were 10 tents pitched on a small spit of sand across the street from our house. (Jim has been tenderly caring for three struggling palm trees on this tiny 700-sq. ft. piece of land. Alas, they probably will not survive the various tent poles, sleeping bags, camp kitchens. We'll try again next year.) By Thursday night every available patch of ground had been claimed, both around our house and on the beach. The disco has been in full tilt and went until 4 PM this morning. The noise is deafening; the house shakes and tempers get frayed. But look at it this way. It's only about week! And I go to Patty's so at least I get a good night's sleep.

This morning I woke at about 7 to the sound of the mosquito spray truck crawling slowly down the colonia road, emitting a fine spray from it's swiveling turret on top. What on earth are they spraying for now? There have been no mosquitoes for about 3 months and the town is full of people who are sleeping outdoors! The truck also made its way up and down the streets in town. We decided they are spraying to keep the fly population under control -- there are usually swarms of flies after the crowd departs from two weeks here -- and also as a precaution against scorpions that are disturbed by the influx of campers on their turf. Think about it!

At noon today the Good Friday procession began its march at one end of town and slowly made its way through the town, down to the malecon, then out through the colonia to the small church on the hill overlooking the ocean. Leading the procession was someone carrying a huge cross. It is a high honor to be chosen as one of several men who carry the cross in relay. The Stations of the Cross are set up along the way and the group stops at each station for prayers and songs. It's quite a remarkable sight.

Meanwhile, the disco blasts away.